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C-41ophobia - The Irrational Fear of DIY Colour

by alspix @ Saturday, 21. Apr, 2007 - 09:08:21 pm

old_chems_example

Pretty soon after starting to do my own B&W film processing I started wondering about colour. Is colour film processing at home possible? How easy is it? Can I do my own films cheaper than the lab? Googling showed the questions had of course been asked many times before, but the answers given on the usenet groups/discussion boards varied a fair bit. The opinion of at least 50% of the respondants seemed to be "No". No, it isn't easy, no you can't get good results and no it is definately not cheaper than getting the lab to do it, the chemicals expire so fast you need to be processing many rolls of film every week to make it cost in. Reading between the lines though, these opinions generally came from those who'd never actually tried colour processing themselves. Those who had tried it weren't quite so negative. In addition there was much talk about not achieving perfect colour balance. At that time I'd been deliberately putting ancient film in my cameras to get shifts in colour balance, so I decided there was little risk in trying some DIY C41 - indeed, perhaps I'd screw it up badly, mess up the colours but get some cool results because of that!

There's not a lot of choice left in the market, far less choice than B&W, but at least this made selecting a product easier! Nova produce a dry "press" kit for around £12, with a stated capacity of 12 rolls of film. In March 2006 I ordered a kit, and started stockpiling exposed films so that I could process them all in a single batch, within the very short stated shelf life of the prepared developer and blix.

I decided I would attempt to split the kit into two batches capapble of processing six films. The chemicals were mixed, then divided. One half was placed in my film freezer for future use.

The first six rolls went without a hitch, the negatives looked fine and scanned with ease. With the kit now "exhausted" I decided to waste a little of my stash of cheap expired film to see how the results would change as I put more and fim through the ageing chemicals. Another six rolls. Six more films nicely developed, no real signs that the chemicals were loosing their power. The instructions indicated a shelf life of 2-3 weeks for part used chemicals. Mine were twice that age, dark and murky, had developed twice their maximum capacity and were still alive and kicking! I stopped counting the films I put through the chemicals at this point, but by the time I started using a fresh batch they had sucessfully developed at least 18 rolls of film of various speeds and types (including some cross-processing)

I didn't bin the old chemicals, but instead kept them (stored at room temperatures regularly >30C during the summer), ocasionaly testing them out on a test roll to see if they still worked.

Could the chemicals survive a whole year? In April 2007, over a year after first mixing the 500ml of 2-week shelf life chemicals, I tried again. My test isn't exactly ideal, I used ISO100 film which expired in 2004! To compensate for this I rated the film speed at ISO50 for the test roll, shot with a Praktica SLR.

The standard developer time is 3:15. To compensate for the chemical's age, I pushed this up to 5:30. No science behind this adjustment, just guesswork! The normal blix time is 3 minutes which I doubled to about 6 minutes. Perhaps this time the film would deliver some wacky colours? Nothing very exciting I'm afraid, just perfectly scannable negatives with a yellow cast.

The following examples are scanned using an Epson 4180 with everything at default, no enhancements or adjustments made.

chairs-default-scan
cat-default-scan
laurel-default-scan
daisy-default-scan

I then scanned again, with the scanner's colour restoration feature checked, just to see the effect of simple colour correction:
chairs-fixed-scan
cat-fixed-scan
laurel-fixed-scan
daisy-fixed-scan

Finally here's one of the test scenes shot with my Canon A70, default automatic setting.
canon_a70_test

So why am I posting this?

These days those photographers still using film, or coming back to it, are often looking in other directions than simply producing the ever sharper and more computer-controlled imagery that modern technolgies are enabling. The attitudes towards the difficulties of colour developing come from a time where, for most people, the sole aim was to strive for sharpness, correct colour control, repeatability. A time when the only way to get your colour image to paper was through the unforgiving world of the wet darkroom, where inconsistant negatives can cause big headaches.

If you're using a Holga,Lomo LC-A, Diana, pinhole, box brownie, etc etc, my guess is you probably won't be shot down by your editor if your colours and exposure aren't 100% spot on accurate. Otherwise you wouldn't be using that plastic lens toy camera, expired film, or cross processing, eh? So don't take too much notice of historical opinions on the practicality of home processing.

Perhaps my standards are too low, but I think the scans I've achieved here are OK. Certainly good enough for me. If you'd be happy with processing results like this then the following statements are all true:

It's easy. In many ways EASIER than B&W.

It's fast. Your film will be drying in less than ten minutes

It's VERY cheap

You don't need special gear - A cheap digital thermometer and a plastic washing up bowl on top of your existing B&W kit.

The stuff lasts FOR AGES!!

I've put the sludgy dark liquids back in their bottles and in the garage cupboard where they have been for 12 months. Let's see what they can do after 18 months.. maybe 2 years? With a bit of luck, the damn things will finally start producing crazy results, so far they have been a bit too well-behaved!

What DOES kill it !
Update, Auguest 2007: I left one batch in plastic containers that weren't full and didn't have all the air squeezed out of them.  In a matter of a couple of months the developer (I assume) became totally ineffective, because after processing the film came out with no image as if it hadnt been exposed, but without the sprocket area markings.  So make sure you use containers that can be squeezed to expel all air and make sure the lids are very tightly fitting !

Suppliers:

In the UK
www.novadarkroom.com Nova Prospeed C41 kit. Powder kit, 12 film capacity

Europe
Fotohuis Amaloco K54 C41 kit, liquid kit, 4x6 kit, 24 films in sperate batches of 6.

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Jacco [Visitor]
http://photolog.kraker.de
23/04/07 @ 08:23

Interesting read! Maybe I should indeed give this a try. You make it sound real easy. I guess the most difficult part of colour processing is getting and keeping the temperature right, right?

alspixalspix pro
23/04/07 @ 09:07

Sometime soon I'll write up the method I use when doing this, but basically I'm not that fussy about temperature control. I use a bowl of water placed in the sink and filled with warm water at the correct temp (meaured with a cheap digital thermometer). inbetween agitations I hold the tank in the water. I don't bother doing this on the blix stage. I'll write the method up in full sometime.

Robert [Visitor]
http://www.FotohuisRoVo.nl
23/04/07 @ 13:52

It's clear to me you have never printed from any negative (RA-4) prints from your home processed negatives.
If doing so you can see what is happening with your negatives and color corrections (shift) in the positive process.
C41 home processing can be done within the right limit of the temperature and certainly the C41 developer is rather critical.

alspixalspix pro
23/04/07 @ 14:34

That's right, I've never done any RA-4 prints. I haven't got access to a darkroom. These days there are lots of people using film as the first stage in a hybrid film/digital process, scanning the film to enter the digital domain before printing, or never printing their work at all.

The point I'm making is that lots of people are put off trying C41 because of the critical requirements of darkroom printing, the myth almost seems to be that unless everything is done perfectly the results will be totally unusable. In the film/digital hybrid that so many work in nowadays this isn't the case.

I'm willing to accept that there may be limitations here but the ability to quickly process as much film as I like at virtually zero cost has removed many of the barriers that previously restricted or slowed down my experimentation with new techniques. If I have a special film I want to look just right of course I wouldn't trust these old chemicals, but for those "what happens if I knock the camera lens out of allignment with a hammer?" moments that I sometimes have (yeah, ok maybe I'm a bit odd there!) having some very cheap old film and a bottle of this stuff around is invaluable! :)

squarefrog [Visitor]
http://squarefrog.co.uk/holga/index.php
23/04/07 @ 16:50

Thanks for dispelling some myths! I've always been too scared to get a colour kit, despite always processing my own b&w. It always seemed like it was so hard to do. I'm more convinced to do it now. To be honest all I shoot is Holga/Lomo stuff so if the colours come out odd it doesn't matter.

It would be great to be able to do my own cross processing at home, then just get the best pictures printed.

Trackback from:Photon Detector [Visitor]

Adventures in year-old DIY C-41 chemistry
See what happens when alspix?the man who brought us the now-legendary matchbox pinhole camera?processes film in year-old, over-used C-41 colour negative chemistry from a DIY kit. The results are surprising!
Read about it at Alspix Stuff.
...

Sebastian [Visitor]
http://photos.sull3n.org
25/04/07 @ 19:51

Wow! Awesome update. I cant wait to see the full writeup about doing this.

E. [Visitor]
http://www.mr-e-cipher.com
25/04/07 @ 20:32

Are you going to try E6 next? I'd give my left nut to find out it's easy to develop your own slide film...

alspixalspix pro
29/04/07 @ 22:56

Yeah, I've got a load of E6 processing vouchers to use so that's put me off trying E6, but the freezer is full of more films that I've got vouchers, so sooner or later....

Bryan C [Visitor]

26/04/07 @ 18:26

Thanks for posting this. I discovered Diafine a few months ago and finally started doing some B&W developing at home. My dad did color processing (slides, negatives, and prints) in a simple basement darkroom when I was a kid, but all the dire warnings I've read online convinced me that it wasn't worth even trying for myself. And that even if I did eventually get it right, the costs for fresh chemistry would be much too high. Your experiences are very reassuring.

unendingwonder [Visitor]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/unendingwonder/
28/04/07 @ 23:49

you have read my mind lately...everyone was saying "don't bother with color processing"...so I haven't. But I was thinking "if i'm cross processing color film in black and white chemistry, do I really care how spot on the results are of my developing?" Obviously not. So, my birthday is coming up, and I have one of these presskits on my wish list lol, which I'm going to pass on to my parents and or boyfriend. I have enough black and white chemistry to last me until i'm 120 yrs old...but I'd like to experiment with color.

Have you tried developing a roll of color in black and white then bleaching partway and reprocessing with your aging chemicals for color? I heard that provides some interesting color shifts--all the way to the pastal scale.

Thanks for this info :)

alspixalspix pro
29/04/07 @ 22:53

unendingwonder: No I haven't tried that, but it sounds like a good idea so I will give it a go soon - thanks for the tip!

tommyp [Visitor]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tom_poole/
30/04/07 @ 22:37

I used the speedibrews SPEEDI-41 kit before to develop colour films, although it has more stages than other kits it has the advantage in the fact there is no real need for temprature control, it also has a seperate bleach and fix meaning i got to try out a couple of films bleach bypass. though after about the 30th film the grain and colours started to go a little rubbish

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/chem19.html

alspixalspix pro
03/05/07 @ 20:28

Hi Tom - Yeah that stuff looks very useful indeed, interesting to hear you got on well with it, I'll certainly be trying that one out too!

John F [Visitor]

23/08/07 @ 22:31

This is very encouraging - thank you !

Could you tell me what temperature the process requires? I've looked around on the web for a detailed description of this product but without success.

Have you tried any of the mono C41 films in this process?

Cheers

John F.

John F [Visitor]

23/08/07 @ 23:04

Doh !! - just found the data sheet... my apologies...

John F.

Ron [Visitor]
http://www.spaceborn.dk
24/08/07 @ 08:02

I'd like to point out that I used Amalocos kit and even though they suggest using it in batches of 6, I just mixed the chemicals to obtain half a liter of working solution. With that I developed one 120 film and later one 135 film. I don't think it is necessary to use it in batches of 6, even though that may be more optimal.
I look forward to see if this kit is also possible to use beyond its specified capacity, especially if it comes to expired films.

Mikhail [Visitor]

27/04/08 @ 20:08

Hello. So, did you compensate development times only after first use of fresh chemicals? Or did you increase time after every use?

alspixalspix pro
28/04/08 @ 16:58

I kept to the standard 3:15 to start with, then as the chemicals got older I left it slightly longer, probably about 4 minutes. Not very scientific!

Derrick [Visitor]
http://www.typicalfish.com
22/06/08 @ 02:04

Thanks for the informative review! It's nice to hear someone provide some useful first-hand information, rather than recycled misconceptions from armchair experts.

Dion [Visitor]

23/06/08 @ 21:37

Thanks so much for this article, I'm thinking of returning to film after a couple of years of despairing at the 'brittle' appearance of digital images, no doubt largely the fault of the infamous blown-out highlights. And the less said about the minute viewfinders of DX cameras, the better. With a decent scanner and a little effort, the endless cycle of expensive upgrades will be a thing of the past.

Steve [Visitor]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/steve_thorley/
11/08/08 @ 23:29

Have you tried freezing your working solution? If you did freeze it, would would that mean you didn't need to squeeze out all the air?

I just bought a C41 kit and am keen to get started

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