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Matchbox Pinhole

by alspix @ Saturday, 31. Dec, 2005 - 12:32:32 am

My first couple of 35mm pinhole cameras attempted to be panoramic, wide angle affairs, but this time I thought it would be nice to get back to the classic square format.

Here's my latest contraption which uses 35mm film to provide square images of 24 x 24mm. Using this size means that you can get up to 50 exposures on a standard roll of 36 exposure film. Now that's what I call economy!

The image edges suffer from distortion that gives a "Diana" quality to the pictures. In fact, the images look very "toy camera" like indeed, except that the pinhole allows some really good close ups due to the DOF of the pinhole.

It's also costs pretty much nothing to build - certainly a lot cheaper than a $100 Diana off ebay!

So far I've only run a single roll of colour film through it, which I then developed in B&W chemicals,so the results are a bit odd but they did prove it worked.

I'll be posting additional photos (colour too!) onto my flickr, check it out.

marmite

All you need is a matchbox, an empty roll of 35mm film, some new 35mm film, some black tape and a bit of foil!

First, mark out a 24mm square exactly in the centre of the matchbox tray, cut this out with a sharp knife as neatly as possible. Or make it messy if you like, it's up to you. This provides the image frame, any rough edges or card fibres will appear on the image obviously.

Now get a black pen and color the tray black. Also stick a pen inside the front of the sleeve and colour that black too.

Cut a small hole, about 6mm square, in the centre of the sleeve. Try to do this as neatly as possible to avoid fluffy fibres appearing in the image

Now for the pinhole. The very short focal length means that the optimum pinhole size is small, less than 0.2mm. Make a pinhole in a bit of foil/drinks can using you favourite method (wont go into it here, search the web), and stick it over the hole in the sleeve.

To work out how far to wind the film, I make small "clickers" from bits of plastic (here that stuff used to bind documents). Cut a very thin strip and make a point at one end

Now take the full roll of film. Stick the curved plastic to the back of the canister so that the pointed end pokes through a sproket hole by about 3mm. As the film is pulled out of the cansiter, the plastic will jump between holes and make a clicking sound. (some more detail on this here)

Now thread the film through the box sleeve. Then, push the inner tray in so that the base of the tray with the hole in in presses against the film, pushing it flat and proving the square frame.

You also need an empty spool to take up the film. Ideally, this will still have a bit of film sticking out, otherwise you have to carefully open the canister with a bottle opener, fix the new film end to the spool and re-assemble. I've done this but its much easier to use a spool with some film sticking out!! Splice the film together with clear tape. Then, wind the film into the take up canister so that both canisters fit snugly against the matchbox. Make sure no film is visible at the back - you will use tape to seal this joint so you dont want to be sticking tape onto the film! NOTE - make sure you dont wind the film back into the full spool at any point, the "clicker" plastic may rip the film.

All that remains is to make the thing light-tight. Wrap tape around the joints between both canisters and the box. Make sure all sides are well covered. The tape does a suprisingly good job at keeping the whole thing together and stable!

Place a small piece of foam on the underside of the takeup canister then wrap tape over it. This gives some tension and stops the film unwinding withing the canister each time you wind on.

Now make a simple shutter, a bit of tape will work, but I prefer a sliding card shutter. The camera's now ready to take pictures! Find something suitable to wedge into the top of the empty spool to act as a handle to wind the film on, and count 6 clicks for each frame.

Check out www.mrpinhole.com to calculate the optimum pinhole size, and work out exposure times for the film you use.

Mine worked out at around f90, which gives fairly short exposure times with ISO100 film, a second or two in daylight.

Make sure you don't wind the film back into the canister with the plastic "clicker" attached - it will rip the film.

Here's some more images from my first test - note I didnt get the hole exactly square! 

If you make one of these cameras there's a flickr group called Matchbox Pinhole - Please add your photos to the pool! :-)

UPDATE:  New (and hopefully better!) instructions are now available at www.matchboxpinhole.com

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Martin [Visitor]

11/01/06 @ 12:36

this is marveillous!
thanks for sharing

John K. [Visitor]
http://www.teamdroid.com
06/02/06 @ 21:30

Very cool, it's almost like you built your own 126 cartridge. It's pretty wide angled too, thats nice.

Trackback from:TeamDroid [Visitor]

Matchbox Pinhole Camera

This proves that you don’t need fancy equipment to build a camera. An empty roll of film, a matchbox, some electrical tape and a bit of foil is all you need to make this clever little gem. One of the coolest things is that because the format i...

Kelly [Visitor]
http://www.devileye.net/
08/02/06 @ 20:21

This is possibly the coolest thing I've ever seen! I definately know what I want to be doing this weekend.

Casey [Visitor]

08/02/06 @ 20:57

This is one of those Saturday afternoon rainy day projects with your 8 year old. Cheers!

Russell [Visitor]
http://zonephotography.com/
08/02/06 @ 22:22

Another solution to using the second canister is to go to a camera supply store and just get empty canisters that are used for loading from a bulk loader. They are relatively cheap, and much easier to take apart than the mass produced ones. I love the sprocket hole clicker thing, I had never thought about doing it that way.

Emilio [Visitor]
http://www.emilio.com.mx
09/02/06 @ 02:36

Ooooorale!!!, que chingón, voy a intentar armar una de esas, luego te envío fotos de mi cámara.
Saludos

Translate:
Wooow!!!, this great!!, i try make one this, i send you picture about my finished pinhole camera.
Greetings

maditi [Visitor]
http://www.micasas.blogspot.com/
09/02/06 @ 07:29

looove it!! thank´s for the instructions - will try to construct one myself ;)

kdr_dle [Visitor]

09/02/06 @ 08:18

does it only take black/white images ? why so ?

alspixalspix pro
09/02/06 @ 09:00

No these are only black and white because i processed the colour film at home in black and white chemicals. Here's some I sent away as normal for colour processing

mark beltran [Visitor]

26/02/06 @ 07:36

You processed color film in b&w chemicals? i've always wanted to do that. i use d-76 developer. what do you use, and at what temperature & times?

Iteki [Visitor]

09/02/06 @ 12:42

Nicely done! Am actually in the process of building something similar myself. Experimenting with the pinhole as we speak. Mine is likely to work out at about f82, not sure how that is going to play on 100/200/400 film, and ideas?

Fernando Ribeiro [Visitor]
http://www.fernandor.com
09/02/06 @ 13:39

Hi, just to say that I've loved your (very) clever project! Congrats. I'll share it with friends and propose a collective foto session. I also took a look at you Flickr images. Liked very much!
Just one thing, I didn't get this part: "Place a small piece of foam on the underside of the takeup canister then wrap tape over it. This gives some tension and stops the film unwinding withing the canister each time you wind on." What are the shape, size and position of the foam? I couldn't grasp that (english is not my mother tong you know...)
Thank you,
Fernando

Taunya [Visitor]
http://bigloser.buzznet.com
09/02/06 @ 19:43

I CAN NOT wait to do this. So can you use normal 400 or 800 color film and develop them at walmart or target?

alspixalspix pro
09/02/06 @ 20:05

Taunya- Yes, it will work with any film. faster films like 400 or 800 will have short exposure times ouside on a sunny day though, less than 1 second. It will be difficult to time this accurately and hold the camera steady whilst opening shutting the shutter. For this reason I recommend using a slower flim like 100ASA, that will need several seconds exposure in the sun, but note you'll need a couple of minutes indoors

alspixalspix pro
09/02/06 @ 20:08

Fernando - The foam pushes slightly against the bottom of the film spool in the canister and provides some friction so that the film doesnt keep unwinding in the canister each time you let go of the winding knob. The pice I used was about 1cm cube, squashed against the underside of the canister with some tape.

Andrei [Visitor]

10/02/06 @ 18:42

This is GREAT! Can't wait to make one! Thank you!

Tom [Visitor]

12/02/06 @ 16:48

I love this article, and cant wait to try it, one question. About how many clicks do you allow between frames?

alspixalspix pro
12/02/06 @ 17:09

Depends how wide you cut the frame hole. The distance between sprocket holes is about 4.75mm, so if you have a 24mm wide frame then 6 sprocket holes = 6 x 4.75 = 28.5mm, i.e. enough for the 24mm frame and a small gap between each shot. So for square 24x24mm frames, 6 clicks.

If you cut a rectangle slot 36x24mm (i.e. standard 35mm frame size) then

8 x 4.75 =38mm, so in that case 8 clicks.

Craig [Visitor]

20/03/07 @ 05:55

You seem to know about this stuff so I wanted to ask you, after you have taken pictures with your pinhole camera can you just take it to some kinda one hour phot place to develop them or do you have to develop them yourself?

Thomas Rosenzweig [Visitor]
http://thomaspic.com
07/05/08 @ 08:01

Any lab can develope them but they might have trouble printing because of odd size and exposure issues.I get the roll developed and then scan them.

NEL MAEL NOYPI [Visitor]

04/03/08 @ 13:55

you alspix.. nice project,.. i was thingking of building my own pinhole with 2 holes so that it will become a stereo pinhole camera... i was thingking of making it based on your matchbox project.. what is the best distance between the two holes if it can be done? can you help me with this? thank you.... really nice project..

alspix [Visitor]

05/03/08 @ 09:15

@NEL MAEL NOYPI That sounds interesting! I don't know much about stereo cameras but I would guess the two pinholes need to be spaced about the same distance apart as the average pair of human eyes? You'll have to do some research! I wonder if the huge wide angle of the pinhole image will have an effect on the stereo image? Good luck !

Trackback from:Shao Kelake [Visitor]


Matchbox Pinhole...

stuutekeer [Visitor]
http://stuutekeer.wordpress.com
14/02/06 @ 09:13

I imitated your matchbox pinhole, and put the first photo of it on my site. Thanks !

Michael [Visitor]
http://www.xcessi.com
14/02/06 @ 12:52

This is very cool.
I'll definitely try to make one.

Janet Ward [Visitor]

14/02/06 @ 13:23

'Fraid, for me there was a glitch on your page.

The google ad box after the text "Now for the pinhole. The very short focal length means that the optimum pinhole size is small, less than 0.2mm. Make a pinhole in a bit of foil/drinks can using you favourite method (wont go into it here, search the web), and stick it over the hole in the sleeve." spreads down too far, covering the next pic and text. All that's left of that is
"from bits of plastic (here that
e a point at one end".

Whizz idea though, takes me back to childhood ^_^

JW

Trackback from: [Visitor]

?????: ???? ????? ?????? ??????? ??????
????? ????? ??????? ?????? ???? ????? ????? ???? ?????? ???????

Andy [Visitor]

14/02/06 @ 15:29

I didn't see a response to this above- can you just drop this off at the local photo development center (walmart, brooks, target)? Do they have problems trimming the prints due to the nonstandard width of the photos?

alspixalspix pro
14/02/06 @ 19:47

It probably depends on the lab, but I would guess than many would struggle when it came to providing prints on their automated machines. When I've had experimental stuff like this processed, I've just asked them for "develop only, no prints". Any lab should be able to handle that. It's a bit cheaper too. Then I scan the negatives and view on my PC. If I want any printed, send them online to a digital photo print company.

Michel [Visitor]

19/02/06 @ 23:17

Hi, I'm a little confused about the "...empty spool" part. Could you clarify how to put it together? Thank you.

Thanks for posting this...I had fun this weekend making two cameras following your design, and put some pix up here:
http://www.sandlerphotographs.com/PinholeMatchbox/2005_02_19_PM01_PM02/index.html

alspixalspix pro
20/02/06 @ 22:02

Michel: The empty spool is just another 35mm film canister, with (most of) the film removed. You could try asking a local processing lab for a used film canister, or buy a roll of very cheap or expired film and pull the film out of the canister, cutting it off a couple of inches before the end. You then just tape the end of this film to the start of the new film with clear tape.

Aaron - your pictures are great !

mark beltran [Visitor]

26/02/06 @ 04:13

I like your matchbox design, because it looks almost like how a Diana or a Holga would shoot. Before, I wasn't too impressed with a lot of pinhole photos because they were just too perfect, like they were shot with lenses. This I like. I joined matchbox pinhole in flickr, and in the future will post some of my pinhole photos hopefully. thanx.

mark

alspixalspix pro
26/02/06 @ 21:21

Mark: (re B&W dev, not sure where your message has gone!) - I used a cheap developer (Jessops Econodev (UK)). Mixed as normal for B&W, then I just looked at the average develop time for equivalent speed B&W film, and added about 10% for luck. But I have no understanding of whether this was the correct thing to do, I just guessed and it worked! Developed at normal temp for B&W (20C)

mark [Visitor]

28/02/06 @ 05:52

Great! I thought the developer had to be warm, like around 95F (a friend did it at 95F with mixed results).

Well so far, I blew two rolls....the first one, the clicker piece was too hard of a plastic piece and tore the sprocket holes as the film was advanced. the second piece, the foil pinhole got torn because the tape grabbed it and ripped it. now i use a black paper to cover the pinhole and use tape to keep the black paper hanging over the pinhole. oh well, live and learn. the third roll should come out perfect. can't wait to finish it up and develop it.

trifly [Visitor]

14/03/06 @ 00:42

Hi, thanks for the inspiration!

How do you design and operate the sliding card shutter? I don't quite get that part and am curious how you do it...

eriador [Visitor]

08/04/08 @ 02:06

I made two channels out of folded-over card and taped them down, then cut a piece of card the width of the gap between them and slid it in. I put some tape on the bottom and a pull tab on the top, so now i can just pull it up and push it back down when I want to expose the film.

Trackback from:cookbadugly.twoday.net [Visitor]

Howto build a matchbox pinhole camera

Intensives flickr'n in den letzten Tagen brachte eine wunderbare Idee zum Vorschein: eine Lochkamera, gebaut aus einer Streichholzschachtel f

Trackback from:cookbadugly.twoday.net [Visitor]

Howto build a matchbox pinhole camera

Intensives flickr'n in den letzten Tagen brachte eine wunderbare Idee zum Vorschein: eine Lochkamera, gebaut aus einer Streichholzschachtel f

Kate [Visitor]

23/03/06 @ 19:18

I'm a bit confused about how to configure the shutter. Could you leave more details on how this is done? Thanks

Trackback from:cookbadugly.twoday.net [Visitor]

matchbox pinhole camera pictures now on my flickr!

eines der bilder meiner ersten lochkamera. etwas k

Roland Korg [Visitor]
http://cookbadugly.twoday.net/
04/04/06 @ 16:05

have some pictures of my pinhole camera now in my flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/58246865@N00/sets/72057594092600761/
inspired by alspix :)

Dennis [Visitor]
http://captured-starlight.blogspot.com/
23/04/06 @ 06:05

What an excellent idea! I've adapted the matchbox design to aluminum construction and posted some pictures and instructions on my pinhole photography blog:

http://captured-starlight.blogspot.com/2006/04/making-35mm-matchbox-pinhole-camera.html

Kevin Osborn [Visitor]
http://qqf.com/weblog/blogger.html
03/05/06 @ 02:34

Really inspiring. I followed your general outline with some mods to craft one out of a mint tin.
(flickr set here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kevino/sets/72057594123825363/)

Any tips on "unloading?" Changing bag only? blow the last few inches and cut it from the feed canister?

alspixalspix pro
03/05/06 @ 19:22

When unloading, I carefully feel the tape near the clicker and pull this out with some needle pliers, then re-wind back into the original canister. Then unwind the tape at that end, and snip off the film, leaving a little sticking out of the camera, to tape the next roll onto.

Looks good BTW !

Clare [Visitor]

02/06/06 @ 06:06

Hi-- my friend and I attempted this twice and we definitely suck at following directions because both times our pictures turned out fuzzy as if it was out of focus. I'm not sure if the size of our pinhole is wrong. We're using a regular matchbox and the pinhole is .023mm-- is that too small? you posted "less than .2mm".

I cannot think of another reason why our pictures turn out fuzzy but assume it's from the pinhole size.

Here's an example of our picture:

http://static.flickr.com/58/158504362_edf0b31b60_o.jpg

and

http://static.flickr.com/50/158504353_dd04ac459e_o.jpg

Thanks and hope to hear from any of you about what we've been doing wrong.

Clare

alspixalspix pro
02/06/06 @ 10:30

Hi Clare,

Those pictures aren't that bad! My first attempts at pinhole photos were virtually unscanable they were so poor! If you really have made the hole 0.023mm, then yes, that's probably is too small. In fact I dont know how you managed to make a hole that small!!! Did you mean 0.023 inch ? In which case, that's a bit too large! See this web page for some tips on making a tool to make the hole using a needle and a pencil:

http://www.pinholeday.org/support/faq.php

They're using a brass shim, but you can use thick aluminium foil (like on a bun/cake casing), or a bit of aluminium cut from a drink can.

For an average matchbox, you'd be looking for a hole about 0.15-0.2mm diameter (0.006 - 0.008 inch)

Also, are you keeping the camera steady during the exposure? Any movement will cause blur, it's pretty much impossible to take a clear picture if you're holding the camera in your hands. Tape it to a tripod, of just stand it somewhere solid while you open the shutter.

You can still get some great pictures even if the camera moves, especially with colour film. Check out this amazing set, some real works of art here! http://www.flickr.com/photos/nicolai_g/sets/693512/

Have fun !!!

jack [Visitor]

11/04/07 @ 23:17

well i know it's nearly a year after this comment was posted, but for anyone reading now, a hole of 0.023 mm would cause considerable light diffraction, causing the blurring.

stuutekeer [Visitor]
http://stuutekeer.wordpress.com
16/05/06 @ 13:33

Thanks again for the idea! I uploaded three matchbox-pinhole photos now, and I will continue to add a new one each day.

This camera rules :D

John [Visitor]
http://blog.chausstran.com/
06/06/06 @ 01:50

thanks, great idea.

dead [Visitor]
http://www.natali.ua
08/06/06 @ 07:31

Wow! Gotta make one....

Abby [Visitor]

18/07/06 @ 15:42

I want to make the standard 35mm frame size so do i make the rectangle 36mm x 24mm because i think thats to big. Or do i make the rectangle 8 x 4.75mm?

alspixalspix pro
18/07/06 @ 17:07

Cut it to 36 x 24mm if you want standard 35mm frames.

Not sure where you're getting the 8 x 4.75mm idea from - that's tiny!!

Check your measurements - if you're more used to inches, 36x24mm is a little smaller than 1.5 x 1 inches

Kris [Visitor]

20/07/06 @ 20:59

How big is the matchbox that you use in the directions. Mine is bigger than that i think. The matchbox i have is about 4.5 x 2.5 inches so do i still use the same mesurments and everything for a bigger box? What effect does using a bigger box have on the pictures?

alspixalspix pro
20/07/06 @ 21:40

The matchbox I used was about 2" long, 1.5" wide and 0.5" deep. The nice thing about the regular, small matchbox is that it's very close to 35mm in width, so the 35mm film fits perfectly through it. You can use a larger box, no problem at all. Check out the one that Formica made here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/liechtenrose/99067122/

The only dimension which will affect the photos is the depth of the box, which will alter how wide angle the camera captures, the diameter of the pinhole required for optimum sharpness, and the exposure time required, but the effect is likely to be minimal unless your box is about 2" deep!

Good luck!

Paul [Visitor]
http://squarefrog.stumbleupon.com
17/08/06 @ 20:08

That you very much for sharing this information. I've recently become infatuated with photography, and I'm desperate to try every form I can find! Going to have to raid the bin at work for empty canisters!

The Chad [Visitor]
http://www.crvimages.com
26/08/06 @ 00:13

Made one of my own, here's a link to my first set of pictures!  :D Thanks!

http://picasaweb.google.com/djrift/MatchboxPinhole

mailirolponi [Visitor]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mailirolponi
15/09/06 @ 14:22

thanks a lot for the info, it's really weel explainde, i´m going to try it, and i will be sharing pictures soon!!
thanks thanks!! :)

EManuele [Visitor]
http://www.photonuke.com
22/10/06 @ 09:16

Thanks very much for this your ideas!
I want try it!
Bye

Trackback from:Le blog de Zolive [Visitor]

Back to the roots
Faire des photos avec une boîte d?allumettes!! C?est possible, un photographe nommé ?alspix? a mis au point un (ou une) ?matchbox pinhole?! C'est Quoi qu?est-ce me direz vous? et ben c?est un stenopé dans une boite d'allumettes...

Vagabond [Visitor]
http://www.vagabond.book.fr
28/10/06 @ 14:19

Hey Alspix,

Thank you so much the matchbox pinhole. I use it quite often. I did almost no modification except for the shutter.

I already made a few B&W series, you got them here :
www.vagabond.book.fr

Check the Stenope and Residence Saint Germain Galleries.

Keep creating cameras man !!!!

utan. [Visitor]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/utan7/
06/11/06 @ 13:39

Thank you for showing your wonderful pinhole camera.
I want to try it!

Exitos [Visitor]
http://exitos.es/
08/11/06 @ 09:14

Increible! Las cosas que se pueden hacer con imaginación y poco dinero.

Felicidades!!!

jdor [Visitor]

22/11/06 @ 21:18

just wondering - do you have the photolabs print the pics from the negatives as well? are there issues with doing so.

thanks

Veronica [Visitor]

13/12/06 @ 18:54

Thanks for sharing this information with us. I made my camera and put some pictures here www.flikr.com/photos/vespi I will add it to the pool soon.

meer berlin [Visitor]
http://meer-berlin.org/daily/large.php/image/07-01-01-01/
01/01/07 @ 19:22

thanks for this wonderful idea - built and used my second generation of this camera about a week ago and got surprisingly good results ... changed just some litte details, for instance i only used 20x20mm for the image to be better able to scan the whole frame including the border if i want and this way i even get 60 pictures with 5 clicks per image onto one roll of film :o)

images can be seen at

http://meer-berlin.org/daily/large.php/image/07-01-01-01/

and the following days

have a nice 2007 - best wishes from berlin

thomas

Sam [Visitor]

19/02/07 @ 06:47

I just made a camera off of this design. I used the side of a Sprite can to make the pinhole. I couldn't find any matchboxes, so I built my own camera body from cardboard.

http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/557727576Nfwgxu

Nathan [Visitor]

24/02/07 @ 23:24

Neat idea. I couldn't resist trying it, so I gathered up the materials and made one yesterday. Only problem is, I'm a bit unsure of exactly how long I need to expose for. One thing I've noticed about this design is that exposure times cannot be very long in sunlight, due to the extremely short focal length.

You suggest an exposure time of about 1 or 2 seconds with ISO 100 film, but my calculation worked out to more like 1/4 sec. I measured the focal length of the matchbox to be about 12 mm. When I input this value into the exposure calulator on www.mrpinhole.com it give me a recommended aperture size of .146 mm (f/82), which I proceeded to use (I have my own technique for measuring the hole). Next, I input my film, Fuji Velvia 50 (the slowest film available around here) and it gave an exposure time of 1/2 sec in bright sun (based on sunny f/16).

It seems to me it would be rather difficult to take a blur free exposure with that amount of time, since you're not going to be able to take your hands off the camera. I imagine the camera would work best on overcast days, indoors, or at night.

These are just my thoughts. I'd be curious to hear what your experience is regarding exposure time - does 2 seconds really work without overexposing? If so, that would give me an exposure of 4 seconds with Velvia. It would also mean the calculator can't be relied on.

Student [Visitor]

18/03/07 @ 08:51

How do u control focus?

khamis [Visitor]
http://wslaat.com/Advertising-Publicity/
30/03/07 @ 13:42

thank you

alspixalspix pro
01/04/07 @ 09:07

"student": There is no focus with a pinhole camera. Everything is in "focus" regardless of distance from the camera, the depth of field is infinate. This does not mean you get sharp pictures however! :-)

Craig: Yes you can take the film anywhere to be developed. Printing is slightly different because of the square frame. You should be able to get reasonable prints from most labs, especially if you tell the first about the square frames, or alternatively cut a 24x36mm frame size, so as far as the lab is concerned the film will look just like any other from any 35mm camera.

Fear [Visitor]
http://coi-thien-thai.ucoz.ru
03/04/07 @ 09:43

I have found out the useful information for me, thanks a lot.

Anna [Visitor]

05/04/07 @ 21:25

Just want to say thank you, this camera saved our project! Made a stop-motion film with one of these, its a truly brilliant little thing. I'm referring anyone that asks to this page, thank you so much for sharing!
xxx Anna

Ali [Visitor]
http://wslaat.com/video/
06/04/07 @ 08:26

thank you

4len [Visitor]

08/04/07 @ 21:20

SASITE XUI PIDORI!!=) RUSSKIE VPERED :D

Andrey [Visitor]
http://www.mobsoft.ru
12/04/07 @ 07:35

This is Great!
Thank you!

malkman [Visitor]

26/04/07 @ 19:33

just cool!
what about videoHOLEcamera? ;ъ

MARCIN [Visitor]

27/04/07 @ 07:19

it's very hard to make such s small pinhole... :-/ what if it's wider? something about 0,5mm?

greetings from Poland :-)

alspixalspix pro
27/04/07 @ 07:34

A wider hole will still work, but the image will be sharpest with the optimum size of pinhole for the focal length. A larger hole will mean the image is more blurred, and it will let more light in so exposure times need to be shorter. For instance, a 0.5mm hole in a camera with a 15mm focal length will give an f-stop of about f30, with ISO100 film, the shutter speed would need to be 1/30 second in bright sunlight. Operating a cardboard shutter that fast is not easy!!! Even with the pinhole diameter of .163, the correct sunny-day exposure would be 1/4 second, but print film is quite forgiving, so exposures of about 1 second (i.e. over-exposed by 2 stops) work out OK

Marcin [Visitor]

27/04/07 @ 10:36

OK, tkanks for helping me. :-) I'll see how it's going to work.

Danny [Visitor]

07/05/07 @ 09:21

Koro4e, o4en zahotelos zamutit takuyu je shtuku :)
Afftar pishi is4o!!!

jikke [Visitor]

09/05/07 @ 10:03

i gathered everyhing to construct my own matchbox camera but still have a couple of questions:
how do you make a slide shutter? and how do you operate it without moving about the whole camera? that question also goes for the little sticky tape shutter...
thanks

alspixalspix pro
09/05/07 @ 19:35

Here's some shutter info:
http://alspix.blog.co.uk/2006/02/09/matchbox_camera_shutter~550497

Basically, just two bits of card with a hole in each.

Yes, it's hard to keep the camera still while operating the shutter. This is a good reason for using slow film. Because the shutter speeds are longer (several seconds) a small ammount of vibration while the shutter is opened/closed has little effect on the final image. Trying to operate with a shutter speed less than 1 second is not easy! Indoors it is less of a problem, tens of seconds or minutes exposure are needed.

Alan [Visitor]
http://www.wiki-me.co.uk
09/05/07 @ 18:40

lol love it finally get my friends back for their emabarrasing camera phone pictures

mary [Visitor]

20/05/07 @ 10:34

hey! i'm making my matchbox pinhole and i have a problem. i can't wind the film..what should i do?

Katie [Visitor]

26/06/07 @ 07:03

I tried to make one of these for a school assignment but it didn't work. I followed your instructions exactly except i accidently left out the bit about the frame, is that important? I also think my method for taking the photos was wrong, all i did was take off the shutter and point it at what i wanted the photo ofIs there something more that i have to do? When i took my film to the photo place to be developed they said that there was nothing on the film. got any ideas, please help

alspixalspix pro
26/06/07 @ 09:38

Katie,
Cutting out the frame is very important!! The light has to get to the film, it cant do that with cardboard in the way. To take pictures it helps to set the camera on something like a wall, table or the ground so it stays as still and steady as possible, pointing at what you want, then open the shutter. Outside, in sunlight, wait for about two seconds, then put the shutter back before moving the camera. To take pictures indoors, leave the camera with the shutter open for about 5 minutes before closing it again.

Better luck next time !

Marcin [Visitor]
http://1marcin.deviantart.com/
28/06/07 @ 15:24

hi, here is my gallery with pinhole photos

http://1marcin.deviantart.com/

greetings
Marcin

Doc [Visitor]

28/10/07 @ 12:47

Thanks for sharing!

I made a shutter, not sure if it will work yet…

I've put together a brief guide on how to make the shutter (I'm going to be using 400 b&w film). Take a look if you are interested and let me know what you think!

http://dsbiasone.googlepages.com/home

Good luck, and thanks Alspix for putting this together.
D

Pierre Lagace [Visitor]

13/11/07 @ 09:27

Hey thanks greatly for the instuctions. I love my Matchbox pinhole! Some of my first few rolls I'v posted on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/17692433@N04/sets/72157603078201988/

Richard [Visitor]

06/12/07 @ 14:39

Can you get the film developed at any 1 hour photo or do you have to get it developed it yourself?

alspixalspix pro
06/12/07 @ 20:22

You can get it developed at any lab, although it's worth mentioning that the frame spacings might be a bit strange, they might take a little more care over cutting the prints up. To make it easier for them, count about 9 clicks between frames.

Dyan [Visitor]

10/12/07 @ 09:20

Oh wow, thank you so much for this! I've been trying to find resources on the internet on how to make 35mm pinhole cameras. I'm really starting to get into toy cameras now (my Holga GCFN should be arriving soon...). I just have a question, though, are these matchbox pinholes one-time cameras only? Or can I reload one of the empty cartridges or something...? Sorry, total noobie here... Thank you again!